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Unilock Windows & Doors Nationwide

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A whole-home remodel with the living, dining and kitchen areas opened up
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Unilock Windows & Doors: The Los Angeles Owner’s Guide

Unilock windows and doors are built for Canadian winters, which means they’re overbuilt for Los Angeles heat and sun, and that’s exactly why they last. When a Unilock window or door component fails here, the culprit is almost always UV damage, dried-out seals, or salt air if you’re within a few miles of the coast, not cold. We stock common Unilock replacement hardware and can install most windows and doors for between $5,310 and $17,700 in Los Angeles, depending on size, finish, and whether the frame needs rework.

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The way most owners find out a part has failed is the same way I’d find it on a walkthrough: a window that suddenly takes two hands to crank, a patio door that scrapes when it slides, or a lock that gives up the day someone puts real weight on it. By the time you notice the symptom, the original part has usually been wearing for a year or more. The good news is that most Unilock failures are isolated to one component, not the whole unit.

Which Unilock Models This Applies To

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Unilock’s window and door lines run from the entry-level Series 3000 up through the premium Series 7000 and 8000, plus their patio door line that shares hardware across several series. The gotcha most owners hit is that a handle or hinge from a Series 5000 window will not fit a Series 7000, even when both windows are the same rough size. Unilock stamps a small serial and model plate on the frame edge, usually on the hinge side, and that plate tells us exactly which generation of hardware you need. If the plate is faded or painted over, we measure the screw centers and the profile depth to identify it.

On the OEM-versus-aftermarket question, I’ll be straight with you: for rollers, hinges, and weatherstripping, there are quality aftermarket parts that meet or beat the original at 60 to 70 percent of the price. For locking hardware, multi-point lock mechanisms, and anything that affects the seal, we steer clients toward genuine Unilock parts. The aftermarket lock bodies we’ve tested don’t hold adjustment in Los Angeles heat, and a door that doesn’t lock cleanly is a call nobody should have to make twice. Mason Remodeling is an independent service provider and not affiliated with Unilock, which means we’re free to tell you when a non-branded part is the smarter buy.

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Styles & brands we work with

Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Home additions & ADU
Home additions & ADU
Roofing
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Windows & doors
Windows & doors
Driveway & pavers
Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your Unilock Windows & Doors Are Failing

  • The handle turns but the lock doesn’t engage. This is almost always a stripped gear inside the lock body, not a misaligned strike plate. Unilock’s multi-point locks use a plastic internal gear that cracks after years of Los Angeles temperature swings.
  • The window sash drops or won’t stay open. The balance springs, which are tensioned coils inside the frame, have fatigued. Unilock balances last 15 to 20 years here; if yours are older than that, this is normal wear.
  • You can see daylight or feel a draft around the frame edge. The weatherstripping has compressed or the corner seals have dried out. UV exposure in Los Angeles hardens Unilock’s foam gaskets faster than the manufacturer’s Canadian testing ever anticipated.
  • The patio door sticks or grinds on one side. The bottom rollers have flattened or filled with grit. Coastal Los Angeles homes get this worse because fine sand works its way into the roller bearings.
  • Condensation forms between the glass panes. The hermetic seal on the insulated glass unit has failed. This is not repairable in the field; the sash or panel gets a new glass unit.
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Replacement Cost & What’s Included

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For Los Angeles homes, a full Unilock window replacement runs $5,310 to $17,700 installed, with most standard double-hung or casement units landing in the $7,000 to $11,000 range. A patio door replacement runs toward the upper end of that range once you factor in the larger glass unit and the extra labor of squaring a heavy panel. A hardware-only repair, like a new lock body or new rollers, stays under $1,500 in most cases.

What drives the price is size, glass package, and whether the surrounding frame is still square. Unilock frames don’t rot the way wood does, which is why these windows age so well in Los Angeles, but any stucco home that’s shifted over the years may need frame shimming. Every job gets a written line-item price before we start. That price includes the part, the labor, haul-away of the old unit, and the finish work. Our workmanship warranty runs 365 days from completion; if something we installed fails in that window, we return at no charge and fix it. That’s the 365-Day Done Right Promise, and it applies here just like it does on our kitchen and bath remodels.

DIY or Call Us?

There are a few things you can safely check on your own: confirm the model plate is legible, note whether the window operates with the same resistance on both sides, and clean the track and hinges with a dry brush. That saves you money on the diagnostic visit and helps us bring the right part on the first trip.

Where DIY goes wrong is prying off the sash or digging into the frame to remove a lock body. Unilock sashes are glazed and sealed under tension, and a cracked sash means buying a whole new window instead of a $200 hardware swap. If the part involves glass, gas-filled panes, or the multi-point lock, let a trained person handle it. Call (803) 680-2547 and tell us the model number and symptom; we’ll tell you honestly whether it’s a truck-stock fix or a special order.

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